Custom Queer Leather Brand FLAMER Releases Third Collection, “Second Skin”

The link between queerness and leather is practically as old as time. From leather daddies, to lesbian biker gangs, to punks in Doc Martens, the material has been our symbol of resilience and sexual freedom throughout history.

The new generation of queer designers continue to embrace leather, taking it in new directions. Self-taught designer Navarr Gonzales’ brand FLAMER has been pushing the boundaries of the material since its founding in 2018.

Unlike fabric, leather is thick and durable. Once pierced by a needle, the hole is permanent. A single mistake can mean starting an entire garment from scratch. The now 26-year-old designer has mastered working with the material, creating intricate designs around the bodies of his subjects.

Navarr’s new collection “Second Skin” follows the curves of each person he creates for down to the belly button imprint. One dress contains flowers crafted from leather - a delicate contrast to the biker-gang and dominatrix uses of the material. Photographer Ima Shoots captures a glamorous yet gritty feel with model Danielle Evon Ploeger, whose body and performance is just as much a part of their outfit as the clothing itself. Some shots are evocative of a drag performer walking home after a late night and others lean into an avant-garde high fashion aesthetic. All the images capture a moment in time and in queer fashion history.

Fashion designer Navarr Gonzalesn

Navarr Gonzales was born in San Antonio, Texas, where his creative journey began with painting. Inspired by artists like Sylvia Ji and Damien Hirst, he honed his visual sensibility, fine motor skills, and attention to detail. This foundation in visual art paved the way for his exploration of performance art, particularly contemporary dance. Through dance, he developed a profound understanding of the human body and its movements—a skill that would later influence his ability to design comfortable, form-fitting clothing. As a young adult, Navarr discovered his passion for working with leather after being inspired to recreate a belt design he admired. This led him to experiment with painting on leather jackets, gradually evolving his craft to designing intricate, full-body creations.

Enjoy Navarr’s reflection on the evolution of his craft, being self-taught, and designing for the queer community.

How did you get into leather making?

I took up leather work at 19-years-old, making small accessories, belts, and other leather goods. Then, with a DIY approach I started making leather garments. In 2018, I created FLAMER and released a 10-piece collection that next year. The brand from the start has always been for us. After 3 consecutive collections I really aim to set a scene that highlights our community. The collections always showcase the real people that the clothing is designed for. I have chosen leather as my medium and stay close to that. I still am on the path of learning with leather work but so far I can see where the growth will be in the coming years.

Growing up I always saw leather around me. My dad’s biker jacket and biker crew memorabilia always stood out. When I first started working with leather I was wanting to recreate this waisted belt I saw online and knew I would never be able to afford at the time. I simply just made it myself. Instead of waiting for my pockets to be deep enough to buy into it I just decided to make my own. A waist belt then turned into making python chokers, then lead to designing small hand bags for my friends.

You never went to fashion school?

No fashion school wasn’t in my cards. I went to college for communication. I remember being in classes and just drawing pieces I wanted to make as soon as I got home.

When I got closer to graduating I did consider starting all over again and apply to fashion schools. I was conflicted because I did realize that my path would be different and accept that I would most likely just have to do it on my own without traditional fashion design schooling.

Then the pandemic happened and it really solidified that decision. I couldn’t rely on an acceptance letter from a big name brand fashion school. I had to keep designing.

I feel without the schooling it really forced my to find my brand identity. I learned how to convey my voice in fashion faster.

How do you feel that working with leather expresses your identity?

I would identify myself as confident person with a great foundation. I express that within the leather with my precision and attention to detail. Leather is not forgiving — once you poke a hole to hand sew or cut the pattern onto the leather there is no going back. I express my craft with intent. I have to be confident in every cut and puncture. I hope that when someone wears FLAMER they also feel that confidence and care that I put into the designs.

Leather to me is strong but also malleable. It can provide protection but also be fragile. I feel like those opposites not only describe how I view myself but what other people can relate to as well.

What about leather & queerness?

I feel leather is a material that is deep rooted in queer culture. Different subcultures within the queer community use leather for art, pleasure and self-expression. I’ve been immersed into BDSM groups to finding myself in the after hours wear-house raves. Leather can feel like it binds and restricts the body but can also feel liberating and encouraging.

Can you tell me more about this recent collection and the inspiration behind it?

With this collection I named it “Second Skin.” The idea was to make the clothing another layer of the wearer’s skin. Fashion is often described as armor that protects us from the world. Leather also has an armor like quality. However, I wanted the leather pieces in this collection to look delicate and easily penetrable. The clothing was to represent another thin layer that holds us together. Hold our secrets, our desires, our organs together. To follow each curve of all the beautiful bodies that choose to wear FLAMER. I reference this through almost all of the pieces some being flesh toned where you can see the abs on stomach or a belly button in the leather. Dresses that fit so tightly to the skin where the leather was molded directly to the body.

Do you believe that for queer people, our clothing is a second skin?

I definitely do believe our clothing is our second skin. We each choose to use that skin with different intent. Sometimes it’s comfortable to hide behind due to our environment and in other situations we use it to enhance ourselves. We actively choose everyday how we want to show these layers of skin to world to either protect or promote ourselves.

How can we get a FLAMER outfit of our own?

I do commissions for custom pieces. These pieces are for sale. You can just email me at navare99@gmail.com or just reach me on Instagram @Flammer98.

CREDITS for all above photos:

Model: Danielle Evon Ploeger @daniell3von
HMUA: Madison Miller @madisonmillermakeup
Designer: FLAMER @flamer98
Studio: Dottiewood Studios @dottiewoodstudios
Photographer: Ima Leupp @imashoots
Film: Strange Effects Lab @strangeeffectslab